Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
